Off the Road

I recently attended a couple events held at a nearby home. I was drawn, not only by the events (a storytelling open mic night and a book launch party), but by a famous former occupant, Jack Kerouac.

The modest block home, where Jack lived the last two years of his life, is tucked on a shady lane in a quiet neighborhood. It’s a far cry from the rowdy, free roaming life he extolled in his books (most famously, On the Road). But, then again, maybe that’s fitting since Jack himself was a juxtaposition.

Regarded as the “father of the Beat Generation” he was a devout Catholic who loathed the hedonism of the counterculture that he helped spawn (and participated in). I’m not sure how he managed to square that with his professed beliefs but I suppose we all have our contradictions.

Though Jack died in 1969, the family trust held onto the property until November 2020 when it was sold to a retired professor of literature. Shortly after purchasing the house, Ken Burchenal and his wife Gina, founded a nonprofit with the goal of promoting local arts, artists, and (counter)culture here in St. Petersburg. 

It occurs to me that Jack would abhor the almost museum-like nature of the house (it came with most of the original furnishings) but I think he’d appreciate the events hosted there. I know I’m looking forward to more of them!

“Because in the end, you won’t remember the time you spent working in the office or mowing your lawn. Climb that goddamn mountain!”

Washed Up

Last week I took advantage of a slightly overcast morning to wander the beach at nearby Fort De Soto Park. I hit the sand shortly after the park opened, so it was just me and the literal early birds out there.

My avian friends mainly consisted of Willets (Tringa semipalmata) and Red Knots (Calidris canutus rufa). The former hang out here year-round while the latter are just stopping over on their migration from the circumpolar region to the southern tip of South America. That’s an epic 9,000 mile journey for a bird that’s only slightly larger than a robin with just a 22″ wingspan!

The scattered clouds put on quite a show up in the sky while the gulf left random treasures on the beach for me. In order of appearance: non-edible Sea Liver (Eudistoma hepaticum), edible Sea Lettuce (Ulva lactuca), coconut, sand dollar, piece of broken plastic hosting Stalked Sea Squirts (Styela clava) invasive stowaways, and a Tootsie Roll-shaped chunk of manatee scat (definitely not edible).

The scat looked fairly fresh so I scanned the water and was fortunate to spot a chubby mermaid just offshore. Unless they are part of a mating mob, manatees typically aren’t that active, preferring to just bob along feeding and farting (that’s how they control their buoyancy).

After they surface for a breather the natural oils on their skin leave behind just enough of residue to change the surface tension of the water which creates a tell-tale circular “footprint”. I may not get a good visual of the manatee but I know where it is. No matter what its always a treat to see them.

What a great way to start the day!

Outta Here

Though some will lament that Florida lacks the colorful changing of seasons, there are still signs. In my mind, Summer doesn’t follow the calendar, it begins in early May with the onset of hot and humid weather and ends in mid-October when the heat finally subsides.

But long before there is a noticeable difference in temperature, the movements of several bird species hint at the seasonal changes ahead.

While many fly south to Florida for the winter, there is a good-sized soaring bird that wings its way from here to even warmer climes down in South America: the Magnificent Frigatebird.

During the summer months, small groups of Magnificent Frigatebirds (Fregata magnificens) can be found soaring over salty water near me. Their 7-8’ long, narrow wings are not only distinctive but they are incredibly powerful- Magnificents are some of the fastest birds in the world, often hitting 95 mph!

While paddling recently I noted that the Magnificents had amassed into a much larger group (I counted close to 100 of them). To me, that was a sign they were getting ready to migrate.

I realized that my time to capture decent photos of them was dwindling. So, on my next free morning, I grabbed my camera and headed to Fort De Soto Park. Just before the entrance, I found them swooping low over a small fresh water pond.

Most of them flew off when I approached but fortunately a few of them stayed and continued drinking under the watchful eye of a white-throated female. After about 30 minutes, they caught a nearby thermal and slowly ascended high into the sky. What a wonderful experience, I look forward to their return next March!

Paddling in Paradise

Last week I finally had the opportunity to paddle down the Weeki Wachee River. I’ve wanted to do this since my first visit to Weeki Wachee State Park a couple years ago.

The flow heading to the Gulf is powered by a spring of the same name. As a first-magnitude spring it discharges over 65 million gallons of water each day. That’s a staggering amount of water (even more so when you consider that Florida has 33 of these springs)!

It was a great outing for my first time stand up paddle boarding – beautiful 72° water, partly cloudy skies, good friends, and even a manatee sighting. What a wonderful day on the water!

Sing for Joy

Treasure Island Sunset, July 2025

I often listen to music (with earphones) while out walking the beach. Last night while watching the sun drop away this song came on and I haven’t been able to get it out of my head. I like the musicality of it (the 1990s sound, with harmonies reminiscent of the Beach Boys) but it’s the lyrics that really resonate with me:

He said hear me nice and loud
Have you ever looked at a cloud
that stopped you in your tracks and left you wondering
The answers not in you or the thing that people do. 

So do it quick and oh do it fast 
cause you just don’t know which day is your last

He says
Sing for Joy
sing for Love 
Sing for everybody
cause we’ve all been through enough

Devouring History

I read recently that Summer temperatures in Florida are averaging 5-10 degrees warmer than in decades prior. This past week the heat has been especially intense, with Tampa officially hitting 100° for the first time in recorded history.

Speaking of history, I spent one of those hot days wandering through the Tampa Bay History Center. Located near downtown Tampa, overlooking the Ybor Channel, this museum has the daunting task of covering 10,000 years of human occupation.

While I would have preferred more information (I always do), the various interactive, multimedia exhibits were well-done and quite engaging: I fought the encroaching white men under Seminole chief Coacoochee, briefly joined the ill-fated crew of a pirate ship, and rolled cigars with Tampeños who brought their tobacco skills with them from Cuba.

As you might imagine, I worked up quite an appetite so I left the museum and hopped aboard the nearby heritage streetcar. My destination? The Columbia Restaurant in Ybor City (the family actually operates a cafe at the museum, and the scents wafting from it were tempting, but I wanted to explore the original, historic location).

Even though the restaurant occupies a full city block and can seat 1,700 people, there was an hour wait for a table when I arrived on a weekday. Lucky for me, there was one open stool at the bar. I slid into a spot between two regulars who were happy to give me recommendations on the large menu. I ordered the Cuban sandwich and the famous 1905 salad and I was not disappointed.

Between the character of the sprawling building and the delicious food I can easily understand why it is the oldest, continuously operated restaurant in the state. Definitely an informative (and filling) way to spend a scorcher!

Lakeside Sights

Since I had errands to run in Clearwater last Wednesday, I grabbed my camera and drove up early to wander the trails at Lake Chautauqua Park beforehand. The morning was relatively cool, for this time of year, and I had a pleasant time exploring. Oddly enough, my previous visit was also in July, shortly after moving to Florida five years ago.

The highlight of my morning was watching a Swallow-tailed Kite swooping overhead. This was my first sighting of one here near the Gulf, as they seem to prefer the insect-rich agricultural fields in the middle of the state. It quickly became clear that it would be impossible for me capture a decent photo of this agile aerialist, so I put my camera away and just enjoyed the show. I know that soon this bird will be heading south, as the species winters in South America.

Moments like that deepen my appreciation for the parks and protected lands here in Pinellas County. Our peninsula may be the most densely populated county in the state but there are still places where nature thrives, thank goodness!