Prep for Mango Ice Cream
Park Ranger and Son
Tenant House
Old Sign (thankfully)
Slater the Gator
Over the past 5 years I’ve driven through the Cross Creek area multiple times. Alongside the highway are engaging signs, reminding passersby that the locale was the setting for Marjorie Kinnan Rawlings’ The Yearling, a coming-of-age novel (and subsequent movie of the same name).
Though I was intrigued, I’d always been in a hurry so I hadn’t stopped to explore. When I learned that the author’s namesake state park was throwing her a party in honor of her birthday, I made plans to attend.
The first step was to actually read the book. While I’m certain all elementary students in Florida have it assigned, growing up out West, I’d never read any of her work. While I was moved by the story of the pioneer family’s struggles I was completely in awe of her descriptions of the native flora and fauna. They were so detailed that I automatically presumed she was a native Floridian.
You can imagine my astonishment when I learned that she was raised in Washington D.C. and attended college in Wisconsin. Marjorie and her husband didn’t move to Cross Creek until 1928.
As aspiring authors, they had hoped that their newly purchased orange grove near a remote village would allow them plenty of time to write. After 5 years, Chuck decided it was too far removed and left. But Marjorie had fallen in love with the land and the characters that lived there so, they divorced and she stayed.
Learning from her neighbors, Marjorie survived off the land- both cultivated and wild. She tended her farm, hunted game, and gathered food from the forest. All the while typing out stories based on the copious notes she’d taken about the land and her neighbors. Her early writings met with moderate success until The Yearling (which won the Pulitizer Prize for fiction in 1939).
As my friend Alyssa and I wandered the grounds of Marjorie’s restored property it struck me how little the area had changed in the past 90 odd years. Some of the original citrus trees are still setting on fruit and Spanish moss still drapes down from massive live oaks. Traffic buzzes by on the recently widened, nearby highway, but we sure couldn’t hear it.
As we savored the homemade mango ice cream (from Marjorie’s favorite recipe), it occurred to me that though locals had viewed her writings as an invasion of privacy (she borrowed heavily from their lives) the park and surrounding area would not now be protected if it hadn’t been for her elevating the area to fame.
By midday, the sun was brutal so we headed over to The Yearling restaurant for refreshments. It opened in 1952, riding on the popularity of the movie, and still features menu items referred to as Cracker food: fried green tomatoes, fried gator tail, frog legs, venison, cheese grits, okra, and collard greens. The food and (literally) wild decor of the sprawling building are a slice of old Florida, where places once served as roadside attractions to draw in passing motorists.
It’s one of a few that have survived into our modern era, and it’s a treat when I get to visit one, like stepping back in time. I highly recommend stopping in, if you’re ever out that way…