Tropical Paradise?

Well, it was bound to happen. Even though I’ve been careful, I am now host to the lovely intestinal parasite, giardia. This little bugger causes a diarrheal disease aptly named giardiasis. I’ll spare you the gory details but I will say the symptoms are triggered by food. So, not eating has suddenly become quite appealing (thankfully, drinking doesn’t seem to be a problem).

I had this once during college and clearly remember the experience. I even know exactly how I contracted it back then, I drank untreated water out of a mountain stream (hence the nickname “beaver fever”). It was so unpleasant that I don’t drink out of streams any more. There are any number of ways to ingest giardia down here so I can’t pinpoint the source this time. Ah well, this, too, shall pass.

I am sharing my misfortune so that those of you dealing with the record breaking cold spell understand that as I stroll down the sandy beach on a warm, sunny day I am suffering, too. That’s living in paradise for ya!

 

Yard Bird 7

This juvenile, Bare-throated Tiger-Heron (Tigrisoma mexicanum) likes my neighbor’s roof. It flies up there in the evenings after spending the day hunting for typical heron food (fish, amphibians, insects, and small rodents) along the creek that runs behind their house. The name refers to the distinctive feather-free, yellow skin under the bill. The adult version of this bird is quite dapper with a vibrant rufous waistcoat (or in proper birder parlance, flanks).

Interestingly, the only U.S. record of this species was found in Hidalgo County, Texas on the western Gulf Coast, near the border with Mexico. Not too surprising since the Brownsville area is a well-known birding hotspot. I would be interested to learn when that was but can’t seem to suss it out.

Arboreal Termitaria

While researching Black-headed Trogons I learned that they are unusual in their family, as they take the easy way out when building a home. Instead of carving holes in trees they just utilize arboreal termite nests. There are certainly plenty of them to choose from down here!

Tortuga Trouble

Things aren’t always perfect in paradise. As you might imagine, I was horrified when I recently stumbled across this pillaged sea turtle nest. After spending time this past summer attending sea turtle hatchling releases and raising money for a sea turtle rescue organization in Texas, this was heartbreaking. Six of the seven sea turtle species in the world are either threatened or endangered.

My local friend explained that Ticos* collect the eggs to sell them. Apparently, they bring a good price since some believe that the eggs improve virility. It is a sad state of affairs. Though, culturally, native peoples in Latin America have been harvesting turtles and turtle eggs for centuries so it requires a huge shift. Thankfully, there are some beaches in Costa Rica where the nests are protected from poaching.

*Native Costa Ricans.

My Daily Routine

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Enjoying the Morning Sun – (Sleepy) Cat on a Hot Tin Roof

I thought I’d share the mellow routine that I’ve settled into during my time in Santa Teresa. Daybreak occurs around 5:30am every day of the year down here (since Costa Rica is only about 10° north of the equator the day length doesn’t differ much). After one or another animal alarm wakes me, I get dressed; swimsuit, cover up, and hat.

First order of business, sweeping out the sand and bugs that accumulated from the previous day (some of the unavoidable hazards of living in a tropical, beach town). Then it’s time for desayuno. By 8am I’m out the door, headed to the beach, after a quick stop at the mercado to buy a fresh banana.

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Main Street in Santa Teresa During Rainy Season

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Path to the Beach

The beach is siete minutos from my house, though I prefer walking further south toward Mal Pais (the fisherman’s village) since it is less congested down there.

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This View Never Gets Old

I have a favorite spot where I do yoga and then spend the next few hours reading, writing, or just watching the surf. The climbing midday temperature and my growling stomach are signals that it’s time to head back to mi casa.

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Walking North Toward Playa Carmen

After a refreshing shower and a bite of almuerzo, I spend time with the neighbor’s cute pup. We play tug of war (with an old rope I beachcombed) before retiring to my hammock for some relaxation.

By 4pm I’m wandering back down to la playa to get a good seat for the daily sunset extravaganza.

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Dry Season Has Begun, Drawing in the Dust is a Fun Hobby

After the sun slides away (around 5:30) I meander back to the market to pick up provisions for cena. At this point I’m in for the night unless I’m meeting up with friends later.

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Santa Teresa Sunset

It is a simple, uncomplicated life and I’m incredibly grateful to be spending this time in el paraíso.

Yard Birds 4, 5 & 6

While each of these species is deserving of an individual posting, I’m lumping my tyrant flycatcher trio together for the purpose of comparison. Though agile insect catchers, they are not the least bit limited in their diets. Interestingly enough, they all enjoy feeding on the little chili peppers growing in my yard. In descending order by size:

The Boat-billed Flycatcher (Megarynchus pitangua) measures in at a solid 9 inches but the most distinguishing characteristic is its stout bill. Hence the first part of the binomial, which is Latin for big nose. Large and powerful, this bird yanks peppers off the plant in mid-flight, returning to a nearby perch before quickly gulping it whole.

I first became an admirer of the noisy and gregarious Great Kiskadee (Pitangus sulphuratus) during a visit to Port Isabel, Texas a dozen years ago. So I was happy to see (and hear) these characters down here. A bit smaller and less powerful, this bird lands in the plant, tugs the bright red pepper loose, and ingests it.

Social Flycatcher (Myiozetetes similis)

The Social Flycatcher (Myiozetetes similis) is the smallest of my three species, measuring in at just under 7 inches. As the name implies, they usually appear in my yard in groups of 3-5. I know when they’ve arrived by their noisy chatter. Their pepper picking strategy takes considerably more effort, requiring multiple attempts for each chili, wiggling the fruit back and forth until it comes free.

I believe I owe these birds thanks for the proliferation of pepper plants in my yard, as their bright red, seed-filled scat dots the ground. In case you’re wondering, I haven’t been eating the little peppers, preferring instead to save them for my colorful and entertaining avian friends.