Tag Archive for ‘nature’

Along Alligator Alley

In Florida, if I say Alligator Alley most people think of the stretch of I-75 that cuts through the Everglades. However, I much prefer another Alligator Alley, a lakeside trail at Circle B Bar Reserve. Last week I was fortunate to attend a special tour of the roughly 1,300 acre former cattle ranch.

I left home before dawn for two reasons, I was hoping to avoid the worst of I-4 traffic and I wanted to walk the loop before joining the tour. Since my last visit two years ago, not much has changed (which is a rare thing here in Florida).

The trail was fairly busy, with quite a few photographers in the mix. As I passed by two young men pointing into the water, I overheard their excitement at seeing their first alligator. They certainly came to the right place, Circle B is loaded with them!

I enjoyed the tram tour, not only was it informative but it took me into an area I had not yet explored (plus we spotted a Barred Owlet).

After the tour I decided to hit the loop one more time before heading home. And I’m so glad I did! Since it was closer to midday, there was hardly anyone else on the trail. I went the opposite way and was rewarded with wonderful wildlife moments: an absolutely massive gator (roughly 15′ long), a raccoon looking for food, a turtle laying eggs, and a squirrel feasting on vegetation.

So thankful that areas like this have been protected!

Florida Softshell, Laying Eggs
Squirrel, Eating Greenery

Wandering in Parks

On my days off I’ve been taking advantage of our mild Spring weather (knowing full well that heat and humidity are on the way) by toting my camera around various local parks. Our usual Spring blooms have been muted by the ongoing drought but there were still other signs of Spring.

At Booker Creek Preserve, a Wild Turkey tom loudly strutted his stuff in a nearby fallow field. I was impressed, though it didn’t seem like any of lady friends were. In the distance a pair of Sandhill Cranes were feeding, they likely had colts with them but sadly they were too far away for me to see.

At John Chestnut Sr. Park I was captivated by a squirrel exerting great effort to harvest dried fruits from a bush. I still don’t know what kind of a bush it was but apparently, it produced delicious fruit. While strolling along the boardwalk I had to watch where I put my hands as the park was literally crawling with tussock moth caterpillars. They may look cute and fluffy but those fuzzy hairs are defensive. Reactions to touching them range from irritating to downright painful (and I was not interested in finding out).

At Sawgrass Lake Park a noticeably large squirrel on a tree trunk caught my eye and its curious behavior drew me closer. The squirrel was intently gnawing the bark. After watching, I surmised that she was pregnant and was selectively chewing that section of bark for either the sap or insects inside, presumably needing extra nutrition for gestation.

I never know just what I might see in my local parks!

Alachua Savannah

After leaving Palatka I drove west toward the broad Alachua Savannah, south of Gainesville. I stopped and explored at two connected sites; Sweetwater Preserve and Sweetwater Wetlands. Both are roughly the same size at 125 acres but they are owned by different government entities, protect different kinds of habitats, and are therefore, managed differently.

The Preserve encompasses a stretch of Sweetwater Branch (a small creek) with narrow, dirt trails that wander through an upland forest. In contrast, the adjacent Wetlands are a series of highly engineered water retention basins that serve as a natural filtration system to improve water quality before it flows into Paynes Prairie and the Floridan Aquifer.

I weathered the hottest part of the afternoon next to the quiet creek in the shady Preserve before venturing over to the wide open Wetlands. As is usual with man-made waters- if you build it, wildlife will come. The tall berms between basins afforded not only great views of wildlife but of Paynes Prairie Preserve State Park to the south as well.

I spotted dozens of species of birds and quite a few alligators as I strolled the along. It was difficult to tear myself away but I still had a 2.5 hour drive. It turned out to be a good thing that I left when I did as my route home from the Wetlands paralleled Paynes Prairie State Park and there was enough light left to spot a herd of horses from the roadside lookout.

It was my first time seeing some of the wild-roaming Florida Cracker horses and I enjoyed watching the interaction of the band. The mares, and last year’s young (which was still trying to nurse), were carefully watched from the side by their stallion (there was another small band in the distance that he kept a wary eye on). I had surmised he was a stallion by his stance and thick neck but then he relieved himself, letting it all hang out which erased any doubt (see photo above).

Even though much has changed in the Alachua Savannah during the past 250 plus years, William Bartram’s description of the area from 1774 still holds true: it is a vast, fertile savanna surrounded by forests, teeming with cattle, horses, and wildlife.

Cow Crossing

My destination the next morning was Ravine Gardens State Park near Palatka. The park was on my list of places to explore for two reasons; it was a New Deal era project (one of nine in the state), and it’s one of the few places in Florida that has some natural topography.

The 152-acre park encompasses two ravines that were carved through the soil by Whitewater Branch, a spring-fed creek. In 1933, at the urging of Palatka residents, the Civil Works Administration began a beautification project that turned the ravines into a terraced garden. A year later the Works Progress Administration took over and planted thousands of azaleas on the steep slopes.

In its heyday, the blooms would start in late February and continue through early May. It must’ve been just stunning (see copy of historic postcard above). Sadly, the gardens have fallen victim to the massive funding backlog of the Florida State Park system. The park put up a sign stating they are letting nature take its course, which I can see making sense along most of the steep slopes (though leaving large, downed trees across trails is a bit of stretch – that’s not nature, that’s a safety hazard). However, in the formal garden and picnic area there is no reason not to restore the lush, historic landscaping (especially since there’s plenty of fresh water onsite).

While I was disappointed in the overall state of the place, one item in particular piqued my interest, a sign about William Bartram. His spot in history was earned as the first naturalist to document Florida. In 1763 Great Britain acquired the land from Spain and in 1774 Bartram was hired to provide a detailed report on their purchase.

Since waterways were the easiest way to traverse the land’s dense vegetation, much of Spanish development centered on the St. Johns River and its tributaries. One of Bartram’s stops along the St. Johns was Palatka.

Wanting to learn more about Bartram’s adventures I headed to the town’s waterfront. Though the location was already occupied by a thriving Seminole village, the current town’s name derives from its import as a Spanish cattle ranching hub. Palatka was mangled from the original Seminole, meaning cow’s crossing.

When Bartram arrived in April 1775 he was impressed by the Seminole village’s acres of cultivated crops (including oranges, corn, beans, melons, and tobacco). He established a good relationship with the villagers, enlisting their help in finding new and interesting flora and fauna for his report. His odd requests earned him the Seminole name, Puc-Puggy (Flower Hunter).

From his nearby home base, Bartram ventured upriver to Blue Spring. It’s odd to call a southern location upriver but the St. Johns is distinctive in that it flows from south to north. Though the term flow is generous, over its entire 310 miles the river drops less than 30’. Battling the current is not the issue but wayfinding is, especially in the Upper Basin where the river fans out to include 13 lakes. One of the lakes, Lake Hell ‘n Blazes* the headwater of the river, earned its colorful name because it was so notoriously difficult to navigate.

Bartram wrote about his Blue Spring trip in his Book “Travels”, relating that a wolf stole fish from his campsite and large alligators almost capsized his little boat (the last is not surprising since his trip was during alligator mating season). He also ventured west, out to the Alachua Savannah, which funnily enough was where I was headed next…

*A popular curse from the early 1800s.

Blue, Orange, Flash

After spending the morning admiring Tiffany’s inspired-by-nature glass art, I was eager to get out into nature myself. Less than an hour later, I was exploring Blue Spring State Park.

There were several reasons that I was drawn to that location: it’s the largest spring along the St. Johns River (over 100 million gallons of fresh water bubble up every day), it hosts the largest winter population of manatees in the state (on February 2 this year there were a record 834 manatees crammed into the spring run), and for a few weeks every Spring the park sparkles after dark from the mating dance of the Florida Single Snappy (Photuris congener).

The past month of warm weather increased the water temperature in the St. Johns River, so there weren’t any manatees hanging around. Since I knew that they just take advantage of the 72° water during cold spells, I wasn’t disappointed (though other visitors were). Manatees, despite their considerable girth, are unlike seals and whales in that they do not have blubber so they rely on warmer water during the winter.

There was still plenty of wildlife to admire as I wandered the trails. And more interesting history than I anticipated. Long before the Spanish landed in Florida (and all the way up until roads and railroads), the St. Johns River was a watery thoroughfare. A large shell mound near the river is evidence that Native Americans used the site for generations.

In 1856, Louis P. Thursby bought the land at the confluence and opened Blue Spring Landing, one of the first steamboat landings on the river. He and his family also planted one of the area’s first orange groves. I caught a whiff of orange blossoms while walking the boardwalk. Since it is my absolute favorite smell, I circled around looking for the tree. I finally spotted the scraggly tree, fighting through the shade of a massive oak. Amazing when one considers it’s a feral descendant of the Thursby’s orchard that was planted 170 years earlier!

After getting my bearings I left the park to check into my room in nearby Orange City. When founded, the town’s name rang true as it was located in Florida’s vast orange growing region. During the 1870s and 80s citrus and other commerce traveled along 400 miles of waterways, primarily the St. Johns. In its heyday, 1894, Florida exported 5 million boxes of oranges. Sadly, a brutal cold snap, known as the Great Freeze, killed roughly 99% of the orange trees in that area. As a result, Florida’s orange production shifted further south to milder climes.

After a brief refresh, I returned to the Park for the feature event, Firefly Night. The park’s Friends group hosts these special evenings which celebrate fireflies and raise awareness of their dwindling populations. I listened to the ranger talk while sitting in a rocking chair on the wraparound porch of the historic Thursby House. The family home, which was built in 1872 atop the shell mound certainly has a commanding view of the river.

As for the fireflies, the Florida Single Snappy is one of the state’s 56 known species. As the name implies, this species uses one quick bright flash to attract a mate. I also learned that fireflies undergo complete metamorphosis (like butterflies) and have the ability to flash during any life stage. Each of the 4 stages last 1-3 weeks except the larval stage, which can last 1-2 years!

By then it was dark, and the first few bright flashes elicited excited murmurs from the crowd scattered along the boardwalk. It was a definitely magical way to spend the evening!

My Amateur Attempt to Capture Florida Single Snappies

Pecking Order

In honor of National Bird Feeding Month, I thought I’d update you on my bird feeder camera. Last week I relocated it to a sunnier spot in my front yard (and moved that feeder to the backyard- never fear, my birds still have options).

The camera caught two new species at the feeder, both of which, for different reasons, surprised me. Between working and relaxing, I spend a decent amount of time out in my yard and this is the first time House Finches have made an appearance. They aren’t an uncommon species, but they are a new yard species for me. As for the Palm Warbler, it is a winter visitor that I first noticed a few years ago and I’m always pleased when the little tail bobber returns. Since they typically dine on insects I didn’t expect it to show up at the feeder. Ever resourceful, they resort to seeds during colder weather.

What’s most notable is the “ownership” of my new feeder. Apparently, it belongs to the grackles. Not only are they the first and last visitors every day, but they chase off all the other species (with two notable exceptions).

In between grackles other birds swoop in but there is a hierarchy among those species. The small birds and cardinals cede to the jays, which in turn defer to the woodpeckers. All of them will take flight when a grackle appears. Thus far, only a pandemonium* of parakeets or a crow outrank grackles.

*Don’t you just love the collective nouns of different animal species? Even when feeding, a group of parakeets is definitely a wild and noisy thing!

Wandering the Watershed

Yesterday I finally had a chance to explore Brooker Creek Preserve. Located near the northern border of Pinellas County, the preserve straddles Brooker Creek. It not only protects a large section of the watershed but it also encompasses the county’s largest remaining swath of undeveloped land (close to 9,000 acres). Considering that Pinellas is the most densely populated county in the state, this open space is a rare treat.

I was up before dawn so that I’d get to there when it opened. I timed it just right, the sun and I both arrived about 7am. I followed the park ranger in as he unlocked the gates but after that I was on my own. Well, except for a couple of White-tailed Deer that foraged and frolicked nearby, completely unconcerned with my presence.

The main thing I noticed as I wandered the boardwalk and trails was the lack of water. If it wasn’t for the current drought, most of the dusty footpaths I wandered would normally be underwater (or at least very muddy, hence the trail sign).

That’s the thing about Florida, it’s the flattest state in the country. Which means that historically, during the rainy season, the water in our largest watershed didn’t exactly gush, as much as it just spread across the landscape. Lacking elevation and the great pull of gravity, the water meandered, passing through marshes, swamps, and wetlands before eventually moseying into Tampa Bay (when left unaltered, but spoiler alert, it’s almost all been altered).

Overall, the dryness worked in my favor, as birds were drawn to the remaining ribbon of water (and my feet didn’t get wet). How fortunate for all of us that this land is protected!

Whispers in the Pines

Early Birds Get the Shells

Winter storms tend to churn up the bottom of the Gulf which leads to new and interesting items on the beach. When the aftermath of one of those storms coincides with a minus tide, the beachcombing is not to be missed. So, yesterday I drove down early to Siesta Key and met Alyssa, her dad Tom, and step mom Suzanne for a morning of shelling.

It was still dark and a breezy 47° but we didn’t let that stop us! We had our headlamps and wore multiple layers. Since I’m a complete cold weather wimp I even had on ear muffs and gloves. Believe it or not, we weren’t the only ones braving the elements, we could see other little dots of light up and down the beach.

There were plenty of shells for everyone and it seemed every couple feet there was something that caught my interest. After a few hours we left to grab breakfast and rest our necks. By the time we returned to the sand, the sun had done it’s job and it was much warmer!

While the crowd had grown there was still so much to see. Interestingly, there were a lot of occupied shells, either by the original creator or by hermit crabs. We returned all the live ones we found to the gulf. Even had the chance to carefully untangle a Sea Cucumber from the wrack and slide it back into the water.

A quick internet search identified the flat, gray, and very dehydrated fish I found as a Planehead Filefish. I collected a few more Chestnut Turbans, Bubbles, and an Oyster Drill as they are rare on my beach. Came across the molt of a Flame Streak Box Crab, a new species for me. Since I had recently read about them, I knew that the green mussel shell, while colorful, was from an invasive species (at least it was dead).

As for the highlight of the day, I have two favorites and both were firsts for me. I was thrilled to find a Sea Potato, the test of a Heart Urchin (somewhat rare as they are very fragile). While the slightly curved, amber half moon that caught my eye, turned out to be a Shark Eye Moon Snail operculum (the door to their shell).

Definitely worth getting up early for!

A Walk in the Park

The weather down here has been incredible lately, with daytime temperatures in the upper 70s and plenty of sunshine. On Sunday I drove down to Myakka River State Park. It was the first state park I visited in Florida when I moved here back in 2019, right about this time of year. While I’ve returned to wander a few times since, I don’t think I’ve had quite such an amazing experience before.

As the afternoon heated up, I headed into the forested hammock. The thing about winter in Florida, I go through a lot of clothes! When I left my house it was 59° so I wore jeans and a long-sleeve shirt. By the time I parked at the trailhead, it was mid-70s and sunny so I switched into shorts and a tshirt. I started the day on an open trail but by mid-afternoon, the sun chased me onto a much shadier trail. We may not get showy Fall colors down here but as you can see, the foliage was definitely festive!

For the last part of my day, I trekked south along the much-diminished Myakka River. Though our dry season has just started, most of Florida is already in a Stage 1 drought. As a result, I was able to reach sections of the river that would typically be completely under water.

I perched on one of the trees downed by last year’s hurricanes and waited, knowing that low water levels elsewhere in the park would bring wildlife here. I didn’t have to wait long, as a steady stream of birds and even a raccoon soon stopped by.

As for alligators, you know what they say, if there’s water in Florida it’s a safe bet that there’s gators! I admire them from a distance because although they mostly laze about, they are surprisingly quick and agile. The momma gator in the video below swam over to warn me to stay away from her not-so-little babies.

Feather and Fur

As they say down here, “it’s been a minute” since I’ve had a chance to hit the trail. I took advantage of a recent mild morning to explore a new one at Lake Seminole Park. There were a good number of folks using the path along with me so it wasn’t as peaceful as I wished but I still managed to share a few quiet moments with some locals.

It seemed humans weren’t the only ones enjoying the cooler weather!