Tag Archive for ‘history’

Quest for Beauty

It might seem odd that the world’s largest collection of works by Louis Comfort Tiffany are displayed in a small city in Florida. After all, the incredibly talented Tiffany (painter, decorator, architect, photographer, furniture designer, potter, jeweler, and of course, glass artist) lived and worked most of his life in New York City.

Interestingly, the connection starts in Chicago where Tiffany broke onto the world stage at the 1893 World’s Columbian Exposition. His father had a large display area for his finely-crafted Tiffany & Co jewelry, part of which he willingly shared so that his son could display his massive leaded-glass chapel.

Besides its sheer size, the chapel astounded the world with its intricate and vivid glass scenes. Tiffany eschewed traditional stained glass (plain glass that was painted), instead using colorful glass of his own making. He called his patented technique for richly swirled panes of glass, opalescent. By layering different hues of opalescent glass with a leaded technique he could create shadows and add depth to achieve a more realistic scene.

His new technique and nature-inspired artworks (like vases featuring peacock feathers) caused quite a stir in the art world. Undoubtedly, the work of the 45 year-old artist would have also caught the attention of Charles Hosmer Morse, a wealthy Chicago industrialist.

After the exhibition, the newly famous Tiffany returned to his various glass and furnishing business ventures in New York. 1902 was a momentous year for Tiffany, he changed his business name to Tiffany Studios and also took over Tiffany & Co after his father’s death. With his sizable inheritance he began construction of Laurelton Hall, his monumental 84-room mansion on Long Island. Tiffany not only designed the building but the furniture, windows, lamps, rugs, and other elements. He was nearing retirement and viewed the home as his masterpiece, a way to showcase art from his long and varied career. A life’s work he referred to as a “Quest for Beauty”.

About this time, Morse purchased a large parcel of land in Florida and worked with other founders to lay out a small town. Winter Park was established with strict architectural rules that emphasized the area’s natural beauty.

In 1918, after officially retiring, Tiffany created a foundation at Laurelton Hall, where young artists could reside and gain inspiration for their own works. One of those lucky fellows was Hugh McKean, who studied there while Tiffany was still alive.

Tiffany’s death in 1933, coincided with the depths of the Great Depression and major changes in artistic tastes. By 1943, the previously successful Tiffany Studios was bankrupt and everything from the estate was sold to cover debts. Unbelievably, Tiffany and his exquisite glass art were heading to obscurity.

In 1945, Morse’s granddaughter Jeanette Genius McKean and her husband Hugh moved to Winter Park, bringing with them a flock of colorful peacocks. Hugh became the first director of the town’s art museum, which was dedicated to his wife’s influential grandfather. The museum featured works from the family’s collection, primarily focused on the Arts & Crafts movement (which included some early Tiffany pieces).

The impetus for the museum’s present focus was a letter written to Hugh by Tiffany’s daughter in 1957. A fire had gutted the vacant Laurelwood Hall, and she beseeched Hugh and Jeanette to salvage some of his once famous leaded glass windows before they were demolished. While walking through the devastation, the McKeans made the decision to save not just windows but other Tiffany-designed architectural elements, like patio columns and fireplace mantels.

That project spurred the artistically inlined team to acquire other Tiffany pieces from around the world to feature at the museum. Their efforts revived interest in Tiffany’s work, today his glasswork is once again highly prized. Roughly 100 years later, the museum is introducing Tiffany’s nature-inspired “Quest for Beauty” to new generations.

Meanwhile, those colorful peacocks became a staple of life in Winter Park. The peacock is officially the town’s mascot, prominently featured on street signs and in beautiful murals all over town.

Firsts

After the dismal rainy weather the day before I was greeted with a cloudy and mild morning, perfect for wandering the remains of the first permanent English settlement in North America. Speaking of firsts, I was the first visitor at the Jamestown National Historic Site that day.

In December 1606 three ships loaded with 144 men, boys, and provisions left London headed for the New World. The goal was to establish a colony to give England a foothold in between the Spanish and French land claims.

On May 14, 1607, after exploring the Chesapeake Bay a suitable location was finally selected, roughly 40 miles up a river (which they named after their king, James). As the three ships and their sailors returned to England, construction of a fort commenced.

The main prerequisites were that the land be defensible and unoccupied. The fort’s location on a bend in the river provided good sightlines. However, the land was in use by native people, though only seasonally. The Powhatan tribe did not have a permanent village there because, as the newcomers soon discovered, the swampy land wasn’t arable, there was a dearth of fresh drinking water, and the surrounding slack water bred hordes of mosquitoes.

Despite those hazards, and mainly through the largesse of the Powhatans, the colonists survived (unlike the earlier settlers at Roanoke which all mysteriously disappeared in the late 1580s). But survival wasn’t the only goal, the colony needed to find and cultivate materials for export.

Timber and forest products were in high demand in England, though cumbersome to transport. The settlers planted grapes for wine and mulberry trees for silkworms. They even tried glassblowing, mining, and shipbuilding. Of all their attempts, tobacco quickly became their most valuable commodity.

The downside of that cash crop? It was labor intensive. The economic woes in England provided a handy solution. Indentured servants were sent over by the boatload to work off their debts (or crimes, such as murder or even merely stealing a loaf of bread). Sadly, over 55% of them did not survive the harsh working conditions.

While ultimately a success story, I appreciated that the exhibits in the museum and on the grounds attempted to provide a balanced view. This first permanent colony produced a lot of firsts, not all of them good, such as the first plantations and the first slaves (with the arrival of stolen and enslaved Africans in 1619).

We are all fortunate that places such as this have been preserved and are still being studied. As Winston Churchill said in a 1948 speech to the British House of Commons, “Those that fail to learn from history are doomed to repeat it.”

Dynamic Duo

While I was down south a few weeks ago I spent an edifying morning touring the historic Edison and Ford Winter Estates in Fort Myers. Intent on beating the heat (and the crowds), I visited on a weekday and arrived just before it opened. Other than staff dusting furniture and tending gardens, I was the only person on the grounds for the first hour.

It was so peaceful that it was easy to understand how the spot quickly captivated Edison. In March of 1885, when Thomas Alva Edison was 38 years old, he visited tiny Fort Myers. A quick thinking man, within 24 hours he had purchased thirteen acres of waterfront along the Caloosahatchee River with the intent of building a home as a respite from the frigid New Jersey winters.

As the railway had not yet reached Fort Myers, all the materials for the three main buildings (Edison’s house, one for his friend and business partner Ezra T. Gilliland, and Edison’s laboratory) had to be brought in by boat. Unlike many of his peers with their ostentatious, massive winter “cottages”, Edison’s plans were modest enough that construction was completed the following year.

1886 was quite a year for Edison as he also married his second wife, 20 year old Mina (his first wife had passed in 1884). Though she was young, Mina could hold her own with him (Mina’s father was a fellow inventor who also founded the Chautauqua Association). Choosing the term “home executive” instead of housewife to describe her role, Mina handily managed both households (New Jersey and Florida) and led several charities while raising Edison’s three children from his prior marriage as well as bearing three of her own.

While the Edisons took full advantage of their time in Florida, fishing in the Gulf and admiring the local wildlife (even amassing quite a menagerie on the grounds, including an alligator), these were not vacations as Edison worked constantly. Apparently, he often worked through the night – during the day he was known to stop and take a catnap wherever he was, sometimes even just sleeping on the ground.

Edison was endlessly curious. To that end, he was a voracious reader that surrounded himself with fellow innovators. When Gilliland decided to sell his portion of the property after the two men had a business dispute, Edison was pleased that Henry Ford eventually bought the house. Even though Ford was almost 40 years his junior, the men were acquainted since Ford had worked at the Edison Illuminating Company as a young man.

One winter, the men decided to explore the Everglades so they invited naturalist John Burroughs to join them on a camping trip. Though the terrain was rough and the swamps were buggy, the men enjoyed their strenuous adventure. They continued their “roughing it” trips for over a decade, in differing locations with a slew of guests over the years (including notables such as Harvey Firestone, Luther Burbank as well as Presidents Warren G. Harding and Calvin Coolidge).

I knew of Edison as a prolific inventor (with 1,093 patents) but I was pleasantly surprised to learn of his reverence for nature. In 1930, about a year before his death, Edison wrote, “Florida is about as near to Heaven as any man can get.” I’m not going to argue with that! Fort Myers is quite fortunate that Mina had the foresight to deed the property to the city in 1947.

Adventuring Home

I decided to do a bit more exploring before leaving the Panhandle last weekend. I was lured to Ochlockonee River State Park by the possibility of sighting an endangered Red-cockaded Woodpecker, or their piebald squirrels, or even river otters.

No luck with any of those but I still had a great time in this section of the Apalachicola National Forest. The park’s main waterway (and namesake) is a unique blackwater river, the water isn’t murky but it is a dark, burnt orange from all the tannins. No surprise that Ochlockonee in native Hitchiti means yellow river.

The park protects a small remnant of a Longleaf Pine (Pinus palustris) forest. Pre-European settlement there was an estimated 90,000,000 acres of these trees in the South. Longleaf Pines were prized by early settlers not only for their wood but for their resin. Collected by hatching the bark, resin was processed into turpentine used to waterproof boats, an important part of the naval stores industry.

Much of the state park land was purchased from the Phillips Turpentine Company in the early 1930s, as demand for turpentine waned. Sadly, because of deforestation and overharvesting only about 3% of the original Longleaf Pine forest remains in the US.

A short drive later I entered St. Marks National Wildlife Refuge. For me, the main draw of the refuge’s 83,000 acres was the St. Marks Lighthouse, the second-oldest one in the state. First lit in 1831, the tower weathered many hurricanes and even withstood a Confederate attack in 1865 before finally being deactivated in 2016.

The refuge is best accessed from the water but I enjoyed wandering the few trails, pleasantly surprised by the Spring flowers I encountered. All the leg-stretching came in handy on my long drive home that evening.

It was a quick visit but I’m glad I made the trip up to the Panhandle, it’s been on my list of places to see for a few years now. There’s always so much to see and discover!