Tag Archive for ‘hiking’

Dismal, Indeed!

When mapping out my route from Raleigh to Chesapeake, Virginia I noticed the Great Dismal Swamp on the map. I didn’t know much about it but with a name like that who could resist checking it out? 

Midafternoon I pulled into the Dismal Swamp State Park in northern North Carolina. A relatively small park, it provides access to a narrow swath of land alongside the historic Dismal Swamp Canal. My first stop was the visitor center where I was pleasantly surprised by both the history and nature exhibits.  

Less than half of the original million acres of swampland remain, much of it drained for settlement and logging. The majority of the bald cypress trees that once towered over the murky water were cut down for building materials for the early colonists. As you might imagine, transporting the logs out of that morass was incredibly difficult.

During a visit in 1763, a 31-year-old gentleman farmer by the name of George Washington proposed building a canal in the landlocked area. Twenty years later work commenced. When it finally opened in 1805, the 22-mile long watery highway was a boon to commerce between North Carolina and Virginia.

Taking a hint from the name, I used up the last of my can of bug repellant before hitting the trails. Unfortunately, I was the only person on the boardwalk which meant I was the best food source around. The constant whine of mosquitoes I expected, but the fierce chomps of biting flies caught me off guard. Either I’m delicious or they were starving because they were relentless.

My curiosity wouldn’t be thwarted so I continued on to the path along the canal. In between swatting insects I pondered the struggle of the slaves who dug out the waterway over 12 long years. A testament to their hard work, it remains the oldest operating canal in the country, though these days it mostly just carries recreational boat traffic.

A fast-moving thunderstorm abruptly ended my explorations. A bit of a mixed blessing, I ended up soaking wet but at least the rain chased the insects away. The term dismal was given by early settlers to any swampy area, but its easy to see how this place earned the moniker Great Dismal Swamp. Dismal, indeed!

I ended my day with a brief trip to Virginia Beach, which I didn’t have much time to enjoy it as another big storm chased me off the sand. Some days are just like that…

Virginia Beach with Incoming Storm

Along the “Boat Building” River

Last week I drove deep into neighboring Pasco County to the Upper Pithlachascotee River Preserve, a little spot that just recently came across my radar. The river’s long name is Creek for “Boat Building” (pithlo=canoe and chaskita=to chop out). The once abundant cypress trees along the river attracted Seminoles who would hollow out the large tree trunks into canoes.

Cypress lumber was also prized by later settlers, who clearcut so many areas that few of the giants remain in Florida. This preserve was partially set aside to protect the largest remaining cypress tree in Pasco County and I was looking forward to seeing it.

I took the narrowing of the roads and growth of potholes as signs that I was getting closer. When I finally pulled in, it didn’t surprise me in the least to be the only car in the parking lot.

Low visitation can make for a more peaceful outing though there are some downsides; wildlife can be more skittish since they are unaccustomed to humans and trails tend to be overgrown since they are less frequently traveled. But the worst part, is all the dang spiderwebs! I coped by picking up a stick and waving it in front of me like I was casting spells. A behavior that I’m certain would have bemused fellow hikers, had I encountered any.

There were fewer than 5 miles of trails but there was still plenty for me to see along the way. A week earlier we had finally received some decent rainfall in the Tampa Bay area and plants had responded with showy displays. As a result, the place was buzzing with pollinators.

While I followed a bumblebee, a smaller version caught my eye because of its odd behavior. It wasn’t visiting flowers to fill the pollen baskets on its legs, instead it was clinging to a plant stem with something clenched in its grasp. It turned out to be a Bumblebee Robberfly, which as the name infers, is a mimic that preys on flying insects. The one I spotted was probably in the midst of injecting its catch with toxic saliva so it could then suck up the liquified innards. Yum!

I enjoyed a nice visit with a striking Eastern Rat Snake, a first for me. I admired the long, slender serpent as it slithered sinuously atop the duff. Since it lives in the forest, it didn’t surprise me to learn that it was also an agile climber.

While a White-tailed Deer and an Eastern Cottontail chose not to pose for photos, an Eastern Grey Squirrel and a Gopher Tortoise didn’t seem to mind as they were both too busy chomping on their veggies.

I was pleased to discover some Reindeer Moss just off the trail. It is very sensitive to disturbance by humans, so there are precious few populations of it left in the state.

Unfortunately, I noted a couple invasive plant species had snuck into the preserve (looking at you Caeserweed and Air Potato Vine). Though happily, there weren’t very many specimens of either. I only spotted one invasive animal, a Wild Boar and it was deceased (which is my favorite kind of Wild Boar).

Sadly, last year’s hurricanes destroyed the section of boardwalk that leads to the large cypress so I didn’t get a chance to see it. I’m hopeful that it survived the storms. Even though I missed out on the giant cypress, it was still a lovely way to spend a warm, overcast day.

Adventuring Home

I decided to do a bit more exploring before leaving the Panhandle last weekend. I was lured to Ochlockonee River State Park by the possibility of sighting an endangered Red-cockaded Woodpecker, or their piebald squirrels, or even river otters.

No luck with any of those but I still had a great time in this section of the Apalachicola National Forest. The park’s main waterway (and namesake) is a unique blackwater river, the water isn’t murky but it is a dark, burnt orange from all the tannins. No surprise that Ochlockonee in native Hitchiti means yellow river.

The park protects a small remnant of a Longleaf Pine (Pinus palustris) forest. Pre-European settlement there was an estimated 90,000,000 acres of these trees in the South. Longleaf Pines were prized by early settlers not only for their wood but for their resin. Collected by hatching the bark, resin was processed into turpentine used to waterproof boats, an important part of the naval stores industry.

Much of the state park land was purchased from the Phillips Turpentine Company in the early 1930s, as demand for turpentine waned. Sadly, because of deforestation and overharvesting only about 3% of the original Longleaf Pine forest remains in the US.

A short drive later I entered St. Marks National Wildlife Refuge. For me, the main draw of the refuge’s 83,000 acres was the St. Marks Lighthouse, the second-oldest one in the state. First lit in 1831, the tower weathered many hurricanes and even withstood a Confederate attack in 1865 before finally being deactivated in 2016.

The refuge is best accessed from the water but I enjoyed wandering the few trails, pleasantly surprised by the Spring flowers I encountered. All the leg-stretching came in handy on my long drive home that evening.

It was a quick visit but I’m glad I made the trip up to the Panhandle, it’s been on my list of places to see for a few years now. There’s always so much to see and discover!