While researching Black-headed Trogons I learned that they are unusual in their family, as they take the easy way out when building a home. Instead of carving holes in trees they just utilize arboreal termite nests. There are certainly plenty of them to choose from down here!
Things aren’t always perfect in paradise. As you might imagine, I was horrified when I recently stumbled across this pillaged sea turtle nest. After spending time this past summer attending sea turtle hatchling releases and raising money for a sea turtle rescue organization in Texas, this was heartbreaking. Six of the seven sea turtle species in the world are either threatened or endangered.
My local friend explained that Ticos* collect the eggs to sell them. Apparently, they bring a good price since some believe that the eggs improve virility. It is a sad state of affairs. Though, culturally, native peoples in Latin America have been harvesting turtles and turtle eggs for centuries so it requires a huge shift. Thankfully, there are some beaches in Costa Rica where the nests are protected from poaching.
*Native Costa Ricans.
Enjoying the Morning Sun – (Sleepy) Cat on a Hot Tin Roof
I thought I’d share the mellow routine that I’ve settled into during my time in Santa Teresa. Daybreak occurs around 5:30am every day of the year down here (since Costa Rica is only about 10° north of the equator the day length doesn’t differ much). After one or another animal alarm wakes me, I get dressed; swimsuit, cover up, and hat.
First order of business, sweeping out the sand and bugs that accumulated from the previous day (some of the unavoidable hazards of living in a tropical, beach town). Then it’s time for desayuno. By 8am I’m out the door, headed to the beach, after a quick stop at the mercado to buy a fresh banana.
Main Street in Santa Teresa During Rainy Season
Path to the Beach
The beach is siete minutos from my house, though I prefer walking further south toward Mal Pais (the fisherman’s village) since it is less congested down there.
This View Never Gets Old
I have a favorite spot where I do yoga and then spend the next few hours reading, writing, or just watching the surf. The climbing midday temperature and my growling stomach are signals that it’s time to head back to mi casa.
Walking North Toward Playa Carmen
After a refreshing shower and a bite of almuerzo, I spend time with the neighbor’s cute pup. We play tug of war (with an old rope I beachcombed) before retiring to my hammock for some relaxation.
By 4pm I’m wandering back down to la playa to get a good seat for the daily sunset extravaganza.
Dry Season Has Begun, Drawing in the Dust is a Fun Hobby
After the sun slides away (around 5:30) I meander back to the market to pick up provisions for cena. At this point I’m in for the night unless I’m meeting up with friends later.
Santa Teresa Sunset
It is a simple, uncomplicated life and I’m incredibly grateful to be spending this time in el paraíso.
Santa Teresa is Truly a Surfing Village
While each of these species is deserving of an individual posting, I’m lumping my tyrant flycatcher trio together for the purpose of comparison. Though agile insect catchers, they are not the least bit limited in their diets. Interestingly enough, they all enjoy feeding on the little chili peppers growing in my yard. In descending order by size:
The Boat-billed Flycatcher (Megarynchus pitangua) measures in at a solid 9 inches but the most distinguishing characteristic is its stout bill. Hence the first part of the binomial, which is Latin for big nose. Large and powerful, this bird yanks peppers off the plant in mid-flight, returning to a nearby perch before quickly gulping it whole.
I first became an admirer of the noisy and gregarious Great Kiskadee (Pitangus sulphuratus) during a visit to Port Isabel, Texas a dozen years ago. So I was happy to see (and hear) these characters down here. A bit smaller and less powerful, this bird lands in the plant, tugs the bright red pepper loose, and ingests it.
The Social Flycatcher (Myiozetetes similis) is the smallest of my three species, measuring in at just under 7 inches. As the name implies, they usually appear in my yard in groups of 3-5. I know when they’ve arrived by their noisy chatter. Their pepper picking strategy takes considerably more effort, requiring multiple attempts for each chili, wiggling the fruit back and forth until it comes free.
I believe I owe these birds thanks for the proliferation of pepper plants in my yard, as their bright red, seed-filled scat dots the ground. In case you’re wondering, I haven’t been eating the little peppers, preferring instead to save them for my colorful and entertaining avian friends.
Sunset, Playa Carmen, Santa Teresa, Costa Rica October 2019
I’ve made a concerted effort to attend every sunset during my stay here (weather allowing). They seldom disappoint but some of them are more stunning than others. This one is just showing off!
Sangria, Santa Teresa, Costa Rica October 2019
After a beach day full of sunshine a sangria is the perfect happy hour drink. Every bar has their own personal recipe and this one makes ample use of cold-pressed juices (orange, strawberry, mango, apple, and even cucumber). After a bit of thought it occurred to me that it’s almost like eating a fruit salad. Or, in this case, a happy salad!
On the mornings when the rooster sleeps in, the Mantled Howler Monkeys (Alouatta palliata) step up to the plate. Though they aren’t visible in this video you can clearly hear them (but trust me, this recording is a poor substitute for the live effect).
Howler Monkeys are the loudest animals in the Americas, registering in at 140 decibels. To put that in perspective; a typical conversation is about 60db, a lawnmower about 90db, and a rock concert about 120db. Keep in mind that anything above 85db can damage your hearing.
The troop napped most of the day high up in the canopy but I was able to get a few shots when some came down lower for afternoon foraging. After snapping an underside photo of the alpha male, I think I might know one reason why they howl. Ouch!
Important tip: when photographing monkeys, do not stand under other members of the troop. Monkey sh*t happens. I’ll be filing this one under: Things I Wish Someone Had Told Me!
I spent most of yesterday at Playa Carmen (it was too relaxing to leave). All the necessary elements combined to make this my best beach day yet: the high was around 80, humidity was only 84%, a couple days without storm runoff allowed sediments to settle so the ocean was full of blues and greens, the outgoing tide left behind a clean beach, and a mild breeze wafted fluffy clouds around the sky. Picture, er, video, perfect!
Though colorful and rather large for an arboreal bird (measuring in at 16 inches, which is actually small for the toucan family) I almost missed these toucans as they were rather quiet and still. This amazing sight greeted me the other morning when I stepped outside. I dashed back into the house to grab my camera and was pleasantly rewarded.
The Collared Aracari (Pteroglossus torquatus) is a frugivore, which explains why all the papayas in my yard are disappearing! I watched these three fuss about the papayas for 15 minutes before they flew off into the forest, followed by another eight birds (which I had overlooked in the canopy)! Makes me wonder about all the other things I’m not seeing…
3rin's View... 